Spring/Summer 2010 Shoe Report


November 16, 2009

by Gracia Ventus

It’s that time of the year again when this shoe lover jumps up and down in glee. Yes folks, style.com has launched its Spring 2010 Accessory Report, and that means hundreds and hundreds of delicious items, or so I thought before going through the photographs.

Designers seem to be copying one another, and not in a good way. Fringes are everywhere, and kitten heel is making its appearance in several shoes, and so are clogs and mules, my pet peeves for shoes.



Alexander Mcqueen
Mama mia, Mr. Mcqueen just knows how to make a girl ignore the cries of her bunion and blister-infested toes. Just like his clothes, this heel from Alexander Mcqueen is the best out of all that spring 2010 designers have to offer, even when compared to Rodarte’s collaboration with Nicholas Kirkwood. It’s the only shoe I look forward to for Spring, to be honest.



Alexander Wang
This Alexander on the other hand, is not doing too brilliantly this season. While the boot is quite alright, well a little more than alright, the mule on the right is quite awful. A mule itself is dowdy, and that fringe just made it much worse.




Aperlaï Paris
I tried googling this label, but there isn’t much info that I can find. That aside the shoes aren’t half bad. I like the croc embossed suede flat booties, kinda reminds me of the Muse Two.






Balenciaga
These boots remind me more of Dries van Noten rather than the futuristic Balenciaga I know. I suppose it is time for Nicholas Ghesquiere to change his direction. I can’t say I like them but at least I can see the effort, but is effort good enough to sell?




Balmain
Seems like Balmain is trying to change its direction too, but there’s nothing new there if you ask me. It’s a very old silhouette added with tribal tooled design. The boot on the right isn’t half bad, but knowing Balmain it’d probably cost twice more expensive than usual designer heels. I could DIY my own studded lace up boots if I want to for a fraction of the price, and buy a Mcqueen with the rest of the money.




Bottega Venetta
Woven espadrilles is a common sight for spring and summer. There are two or three other similar wedges along the same silhouette so not much to be said here.

Bruno Frisoni
Ugly hairy shoe vs. trendy stripper platform. I have a feeling Bruno Frisoni created the right heel to make up for the loss of sales due to the fringy shoe on the left.

Camilla Skovgaard
I’m still not a fan of Camilla Skoovgaard’s designs because of the rubber soles. I prefer my shoes to be soled in leather. Plus doesn’t the wedge on the left reminds you of caterpillars? The shoe on the right is quite alright, I like the chain detail but the heel shape and thin sole is a little too dainty in my opinion.

Chanel
What was Kagerfeld thinking when he was designing these clogs? What makes him think that clogs are even ok for prêt-àporter? And adding studs to them too? Aaaarrgghhh……






Christian Louboutin
I think Louboutin made the left shoe as a joke. Well I hope he doesn’t even think of putting those into production. My grandma (bless her kind soul), could have knitted me that shoe sock with better colour combinations . As for the other two, well I can see the 60s influence of juxtaposing clashing colours. To be honest Louboutin’s shoes for Philip Lim are heaps better than these.

Donna Karan
Hello Donna Karan, I think we’ve never met, you and I, but it’s about time we do. Looking at your edgy espadrilles you’re finally getting on the trendy radar again. Congratulations!

Dries van Noten
I can recognise those curvy claw heels from anywhere, as well as Dries van Noten’s signature quirky colour combinations and materials. If they come with reasonable price tags then they will be the perfect spring shoes.



Giambattista Valli
There’s just no stopping this designer from churning out stripper platforms with tapering thin heels. The pleasant colour combination doesn’t save them from being boring though.




Givenchy
Geometric prints ruled on Givenchy’s runway. If my predictions are correct these shoes would be on the feet of every trendy bloggers who can afford them.




Lanvin
Oh dear me, Lanvin has become quite lacklustre in the shoe department. I can find no fault with the shoe, but there’s nothing there to excite my twinkly toes either.





Louis Vuitton
Never before have I seen shoes receiving so much negative criticisms, and I can see why. Boohoo to you Marc Jacobs. There are better uses to these materials. Trees weren’t cut down to make these monstrosities!






Manolo Blahnik
See the only time I have ever stepped into a Manolo Blahnik store was to borrow their shoes for a photoshoot, and I don’t see the need to step in there again. Firstly because the shoes are too matronly in my opinion, only favouring the likes of middle aged ladies, and secondly the price points are well, beyond what I would pay for dainty, matronly shoes. But looking at the shoes above it looks like the shoe designer is pushing for a trendier approach. Kudos to you, Mr Blahnik.




Miu Miu
Nooooo… more clogs?!??!! When will all these atrocities end? I did not make the extra effort to recycle my paper just so that designers can use more wood to make ugly clogs! That child-like pink print makes the mule clog looks like a wellington boot with its shaft cut off. And because of them all the other stores are going to make ugly clogs as well. As for the platform on the right, well it’s just another reincarnation of the 70s platform. Quite blah really.



Nicholas Kirkwood
Mr Kirkwood does better in his collaborations, ie. with Rodarte. He’s just reusing the same formula for his own collection, but at least the one on the left has a different clawed heel. Nevertheless I don’t see his appeal wearing off on women who love stilettos.



Nina Ricci
Ooh, here’s a gothic lacy design from Nina Ricci. Although it resembles the ones from Dolce & Gabbana, I favour this one due to the curvy heel giving it more character.






Pierre Hardy
I’m seeing more Art Deco influences these days. Pierre Hardy is definitely right on trend with towering heels and chunky, oh extra chunky platforms. One thing I noted is that he managed to create the illusion of the shoe on the right having a thinner platform than it actually does. That spells good news for the wearer of the shoe.

Proenza Schouler
The duo just keeps getting better and better with their shoe designs. They have been coming up with new silhouettes every season that is flawlessly drool-inducing. I hope that their shoes are more accessible this time to the masses. Speaking of which I’m still waiting for the Resort 2010 heels to hit the stores. Why are buyers not stocking up on the right shoes?



Roger Vivier
I know fashion is hardly about practicality, but I would rather not have my shoes looking like a mop, nor taking over its job. Bruno Frisoni does love his tassles, doesn’t he?



Santoni
Modern, with a fresh colour scheme, this is simplicity at its best. If I didn’t look at the name I would have thought this came from Jil Sander.




Thakoon
I love the suede peekabo details, and it comes in a delicious blue too. I just wish Thakoon would put more thought into the heel shape.



Vionnet
The House of Vionnet is old, veeeeeery old. Madeleine Vionnet closed it during WW2, and it stayed closed until some rich guy decided to revive it recently thinking that he can milk the cash cow because of the prestige attached to the name. Having read tons and tons of fashion history very recently I have grown to be very fond of Madeleine Vionnet’s creations, but looking at these I am afraid the shoe designer behind it should be fired. A thong sandal? You’re kidding right?



Yes I know I have been quite harsh in some of my judgements, but I’m being honest as a potential buyer who will mindlessly splurge my cash on silly impractical shoes. I’m highly selective due to my limited funds, or I may just be a bitch who’s not easy to please. What do you think of these shoes?


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Contemporary shoe designers: Sophia Kokosalaki, Raphael Young, Chrissie Morris


November 12, 2009

by Gracia Ventus

Hi there fellow shoe lovers, here are some delicious shoe designs I came across a few months ago (but didn’t have the time to post).

Sophia Kokosalaki

Kokosalaki is a Greek designer who’s not so new in the fashion scene, having been at the helm of the legendary House of Vionnet in 2006, but now running her own fashion line. Although her shoe collection is quite modest, I must admit I am head over heels with them.

Below are shoes from her A/W 09 collection. Isn’t the over-heel just marvellous? I first saw a similar idea by United Nude, then I wasn’t quite keen on the block heel, but Kokosalaki made the idea much more fluid and fearsome.




Raphael Young

Raphael Young’s shoes are still quite elusive in the mass market, but he’s definitely someone you should watch out for if you’re a huge fan of architectural fierce shoes.




Chrissie Morris

Lots of shoe lovers out there might be acquinted with this briliant shoe designer by now. Her trademark stingray and python combination is still evident in her S/S 10 collection. This time though she has veered towards the art deco period and combined the most luscious colours with ingenious piping, which happens to be my favourite detail in shoes and bags.


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Rodarte x Nicholas Kirkwood boots craze


October 13, 2009

by Gracia Ventus

I’m growing to be a stalker of the Rodarte boots. I’m not a fan of thigh highs but after seeing these I’m changing my mind.



Image via TFS




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Spring/Summer 2010


October 12, 2009

by Gracia Ventus

It’s that time of the year again when the fashion world gets busy, with editors, stylists, buyers, etc prancing all over the fashion capitals to see and be seen in their best clothes (and SHOES!! oh the shoes…..). On the runway, designers have been making hits and misses (eg. Lohan for Ungaro) with their spring collections. Judging from all of the shows available on style.com, there are still certain underlying trends that influence the designers, such as tailored suits and biker/rock and roll chicks. Not many of them made anything new or groundbreaking, but nevertheless there are more great creations than what spring/summer collections usually churn out.

Anyway here are my picks from the shows. These are the pieces which I find to be more interesting, or the ones I’d actually like to own if I were a billionaire. I’ve skipped Balmain which I found to be quite a redundant collection and A Wang since he gets too much publicity as it is.


Viktor & Rolf
The duo’s doing what they do best, creating avant-garde, decadent pieces that would never be reproduced for the likes of us. They remind me a little too much of the 80s, but kudos to them for creating walking art pieces.



Valentino
I was very much overjoyed seeing Valentino’s spring collection after the disappointing fall/winter gowns. It consists of beautiful drapings with youthful silhouettes which I would have worn myself, but alas I don’t have that many cocktail or tea parties to wear them to.




Todd Lynn
Awesomestzz shouler pads, ’nuff said.




Sophia Kokosalaki
I can never resist beautiful leather dresses. The shoes on the right look pretty interesting too.




Rick Owens
Rick Owens never fail to create media sensation with his collections. His signature architectural jackets and asymmetrical drapings are very much identifiable, maybe a little too much that I’m not seeing anything new from him.




Proenza Schouler
Another fantastic duo who constantly experiements. While I’m not a big fan of the clothes, Proenza Schouler ALWAYS makes droolable footcandies, and this time it’s no different.



Phi
I’m not seeing anything groundbreaking from Phi, but I do love the rock chic vibe that is going on, plus combat shoes would never go wrong in my books.




Neil Barrett
Love love love the structured suits and coats.




Maison Martin Margiela
Hmm… where do I even begin with Margiela? I have always respected the elusive meister, but word goes that he has left the house. Looking at the collection this time I’m not surprised if the news is true. For one, it is not very consistent. I’m sensing a lot of gothic influences and yet there are happy hawaiian prints emerging out of nowhere. While there are many interesting pieces to covet, I’m not too impressed with the overtly slouchy boots AND the aforementioned hawaiian prints.



Marchesa
Pretty dresses for red carpet events.




Malandrino
I love how the styling inspires me to get myself a maxi dress and pair it up with oxford shoes.




Loewe
I’m a huge fan of leather but somehow I’m not quite acquinted with this house of leather. The latest collection will not make much difference to me BUT I do love these two looks, especially the brown suede dress.




Lanvin
Albert Elbaz has always been a genius with draping, but like many other designers he’s falling back to his tried-and-tested formula. With that said it is still a very gorgeous collection.




Karl Lagerfeld
To be honest I was never a fan of Karl Lagerfeld. I personally think that he’s butchering Chanel because he can’t seem to create good outifts except for himself. And perhaps this is why this time round I think he’s doing a damn good job with his house. I can see his own outfits in this collection, the high collars, tuxedos, ties, all of them just scream Lagerfeld.




Junya Watanabe
Suits, suits and more suits!




Haider Ackermann
Haider Ackermann has always been one of my favourite designers. Hailing from Belgium, his designs bear similar influences to the other legendary Antwerpen designers such as Ann Demeulemeester with the minimalistic colour approach of Raf Simmons. He’s also a master in draping like Rick Owens, if not better on some occasions, but it’s too bad he’s always been under the radar. His spring collection is no different. I’m still in love with his long skirts and dark, layered looks.




Givenchy
Givenchy’s prints are quite gorgeous, I must admit. The shoes are highly wearable and versatile too.




Gary Graham
I love how the pieces exude old English charms and how ethereal the last dress looks.




Gareth Pugh
Gareth Pugh is maintaining what he does best, greyscale colour palette and almost androgynous, structured pieces.




Elise Øverland
It seems like designers are moving to leather dresses instead of just pants now, which is a good thing in my books.




Dolce & Gabbana
Looking at the looks below it is safe to conclude that heavy Spanish influence dominates Dolce & Gabbana’s collection, and they are looking pretty awesome to me. It helps that they have got the different cuts of tuxedos, as well as amazing lingerie-inspired bodycon dresses. Loving the floral prints as well.




D&G
This collection reminds me of Anna Sui’s western collection some years back, sans the men’s suits. I’m not complaining since the looks are beautifully stylised, definitely inspirational but not worth buying IMHO.




Celine
With Phoebe Philo’s move from Chloe to Celine, the latter’s brand position should move up a few rungs. I would wear all of these clothes when I’m thirty and successful (and much much wealthier, therefore able to afford the clothes, I hope).




Burberry Prorsum
It’s all about twists and knots over at Burberry. I can see Christopher Bailey trying very hard to make the house a cool brand for the young and hip, what with the short, bodycon dresses and sky-high platforms.




Bruno Pieters
I would wear every single piece in this collection if I have the money to buy them. Long live Belgian designers and their superb draping skills.




Aquilano Rimondi
Move over Lanvin, cocktail dress has a new designer, and his name is Aquilano Rimondi. If I were Albert Elbaz I wouldn’t be so comfortable on my draping throne after seeing these dresses, especially when compared to his not-so-remarkable collection this time round.




Alexander Mcqueen
Ahh… The show that everyone has been talking about. Yes, I saved the best for the last. I fell head over heels as soon as I saw the first dress, and each one that comes after that. I love the dress at the lower right hand corner so much that I vow to save up for it and snap it up as soon as it goes on sale.

As for the shoes, I hope Mcqueen will create the wearable versions. They are unfuckingbelievable.



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