Going Zen


July 20, 2012

by Gracia Ventus

How does one go about choosing the attire of the day? Occasion is, needless to say, of the utmost importance, unless one goes by the name of Lady Gaga. So let’s say it’s a Saturday, I’m heading out to meet my friend(s)/significant other in the city (circle applicable option).

First thing that comes to mind is, do I need to be dressed comfortably today? There’s lots of walking to do, so no cab-to-curb shoes.

Is there something you’ve been thinking of wearing? Hell yes my Cos dress that’s never seen the light of the day because I’m too scared to wear white.

What kind of look can I go for in this white dress? An ass-kickin’ off-duty samurai of course.

self-fist bump





Cos dress; Thrifted kimono; Rick Owens boots

In the back of my mind (or is your conscious thought at the front?), all I could think of was Christophe Lemaire’s relaxed simplicity, all loosy-goosy and billowy. However, one can’t stray too far from Rick so I chose these particular boots over a proper pair of bottoms, also partly due to the fact that I don’t own any loose trousers, yet.

While Monsieur Lemaire’s collection was refreshing, it is by no means new. Damir Doma has been doing the desert nomad look for many years, while Yohji Yamamoto is probably the grandfather of luxurious comfort dressing. With that said, I really wanted to buy the a thing or two from his capsule collection with The Corner, but broke girl was, and still is, broke.



Christophe Lemaire for The Corner, via Arewu Journal


Much to my surprise back in February, Rick Owens decided to join the Zen crew by presenting his version of floor length coats for his FW 2012 show, complete with floor-skimming cashmere robes. In 2008-2009 he showed women who came from outer space, clad in skin tight leather space suits. Fast forward a few years later, these women have mingled with the Earthlings, but as high priestesses who rule over mankind from high up the Mountain, simply because they are too fearsome and the puny Earthlings are no match for them. If they remove their masks, they must draw blood. Also they probably keep a bevy of men at bay for snu-snu.



Certainly not the kind of woman you want to mess with, no siree. Via Models.com

Mind you that initial thought process in dressing occured to me almost subconsciously as I was trying to get dressed as fast as I can in an hour. My point of reference was solely Christophe Lemaire’s works, or so I thought. It was only when I retraced my thoughts as I was writing them down that I realised I might’ve jumped on a muthaflippin’ trend. But no matter. One simply does not feel unhappy when one dresses like a samurai, trend or no trend.



This face says: ‘I’m proper chuffed with this fit’

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Stranger Ranger


July 15, 2012

by Gracia Ventus

Shirt – Target; Trousers – Margiela


Once, I attended a small music showcase in an art gallery, not knowing what to expect since I was there to watch a friend’s performance. There were other artists who were participating, none of whom I remembered save for one. She played nothing but a recording of a tape which had been placed under a bridge. Seriously, no music accompaniment, no commentary, zilch. Just sounds of car engines, shaking concretes and loose pebbles. I didn’t know what the point of it is, and I bet lots of people left the room thinking what the fck they had just listened to.

Weirdly my approach to dressing has taken a similar turn. If I am heading to town or some place fancy, I’d pull out some outrageous Ricks or Margielas because I revel in the discomfort of unsuspecting strangers. Well now you’re probably thinking that I’m dressing up for other people. That would be accurate if I’m showing lots of skin or be as conventionally attractive as I can. In fact more often than not I bare very little skin which I blame on the way I’ve been raised. However, to say that I want to make an impression, that would be quite correct, though it does not necessarily have to be the good kind. Hell the world can be too mundane if we don’t shake it up once in a while.

Mind you this should not be mistaken as me buying clothes just for its shock factor. They have to speak to me first and be an extension of my personality and all that. But the icing on top would be overhearing someone say ‘that b
tch be cray’.


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Armour


July 13, 2012

by Gracia Ventus

Moments before you step out of the door, you take one last look at your reflection in the mirror, making sure that every crease is in place, your Drkshdw shirt is tucked into a billowy pair of Yohji, oh so casually to give the air of nonchalance, and the giant linen Damir Doma scarf swathed like a fluid cuirass. Satisfied with every inch of your appearance, you step gingerly into your Guidis, and then proceed to close the door ever so carefully so that your floor length Rick cape does not get caught, all the while bracing yourself to face the world that does not appreciate your presentation.

You’d love to take a cab to the city, away from the suburban judgmental minds, but it is not a luxury you can afford every so often. You know very well the reactions you will provoke, and you tell yourself that you are used to it by now. You love looking at children though, because they have that adorable curiosity in their eyes, yet untamed with preconceived notions. You switch on your Ipod to shut off the world, transporting yourself back to the days you spent in faraway places, places where diversity was celebrated. In those places, it was okay to be different, no matter whether it was the good sort, or bad. There was a sense of comfort every time you step out of the door. You could dress the way you wanted to, you didn’t have to conform, and on some days, a stranger would know of the story behind your choice of dress, as if you were members of a tribe who had just met for the first time. A smile was exchanged, and sometimes, a conversation. That sense of belonging, it was something you truly missed.

It does not get much better in the city, but somehow your alienness looks less jarring against the concrete backdrop and you can disappear quickly into the crowd, allowing less time for those stares to linger on you. Too often you feel the pressure to dress down, but you know well enough you can’t bring yourself to do it, unless the occasion dictates so. The clothes you have chosen for yourself have become your armour, you feel naked without them. It is a self-defence mechanism you’ve placed upon yourself to filter out the advances of insecure men, men who secretly preferred subservient women, men who have certain misguided preconceptions about how women should present themselves in this largely conservative society.

You spot your friend in a sea of hurried shoppers, and together you make your way through the maze of shops to your favourite joint. At this awkward period of the day that is tea time, the Japanese cafe was empty. Having sipped the first cup of fragrant tea in comfortable silence, he asked, ‘Why fashion?’


‘I don’t know,’ you shrugged. ‘I’m drawn towards beautiful garments, from the cut, to the fabric, to its provenance. It is the closest way to incorporating artistic creativity in my life, on my body. For example, holding a piece of well-crafted leather jacket satisfies so many sensory experiences, from my eyes the moment I see its wrinkles, the tactile stimulation it creates when I run my hands across its grains, to the fresh, raw smell of processed skins that I want to be enveloped in. Does that answer your question?’

‘No, not really.’ You both chuckled.

‘Maybe it’s the power to provoke. It’s delightful. But I’ll get back to you on that.’


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O Junya! My Junya!


July 4, 2012

by Gracia Ventus

Junya Watanabe cape; Asos maxi dress


I meant to write a whole bunch of stuff but my plate’s full of everything but time. Arrgghh.

Also I’m very, very grateful for any opinions you guys have been providing on the last few posts. I enjoy putting out my thoughts but it’s more exciting when I’m also learning from the intelligent minds out there.


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In which I explored the path that lead me to Rick Owens


June 26, 2012

by Gracia Ventus

Have you ever thought why you dress the way you do? Since our hormones kicked in full gear in pubescent years, we spent a large part of our lives fathoming how we should dress ourselves in such a way that fits our lifestyle and personality, until we reach a point where we’re quite certain we’ve found something we feel comfortable in. Personally I went through a couple of phases before getting to where I am.




The first few years when I began discovering the importance of fashion as a means of self-expression, it coincided with my days as an amateur musician. I used to play the drums a long time ago for quite a number of years, and like any typical head-banging rocker/metalhead my uniform was mostly black, with lots of menacing accessories and band t-shirts. I still wear my band shirts and biker boots but the studs and cuffs were long gone.

In my late teens, fashion slowly creeped into my life to take over the passion I had for music as I was doing a short, intense stint for a couple of magazines. All of a sudden I found myself veering off a tangent and experimenting with vintage clothes. Moving to Melbourne afterwards fuelled the phase further as it is one of the best cities in the world for thrifting. Mind you even when I was sporting floral tea dresses I’d be pairing them with biker boots. I was already aware of high fashion but never really understood it until the day I bought my first pair of Stella Mccartney boots off Ebay.

As the fashion industry slowly opened up to the outside world, a clueless me peered in to see what the hoolabaloo was about. I was ogling at wondrous monolithic heels on JakandJill, Style.com became a bit of a daily read as I try to know more about the industry beyond the common household names such as Prada and Gucci, and bam! I found myself gaping at Rick Owens for the first time ever.

I remembered it was the FW2008 show, the beautiful ‘Stag’ collection which is still one of his best til this very day. Before Rick, I never knew such powerful yet feminine aesthetic could exist in fashion. I had the impression that every designer made beautiful clothes like Lanvin, Valentino, Versace etc, but nothing so alien and fantasy-like. Something about looking like a futuristic Amazonian soldier appealed so strongly to me that I’ve never looked back since. From there I discovered the other side of fashion, the world where Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto sit on the thrones.

So that was the ‘how’ I get to my choice of aesthetics. In the next post I’ll continue with the ‘why’ this particular aesthetic resonates strongly with me, and why I choose to put up with the unsavoury reactions I’ve received in a conservative society like Singapore . In the meantime, I would love to know how YOU, my fellow fashion enthusiasts, arrive at your chosen state of dress. As they say, sharing is caring.

Here is the beautiful jacket made by Pedro Korshi which I wore to an opening party of a bar in town.






Pedro Korshi jacket; Zam Barrett tank; Rick Owens organza shorts and Brancusi boots


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